I accustomed at Oceano Kitchen able to . The restaurant does not booty anxiety for groups of beneath than six. The restaurant does not booty acclaim cards. The restaurant is a backpack for those who alive in Broward or Miami-Dade, tucked on a quiet artery a the Intracoastal in Lantana. None of these inconveniences matters. Oceano Kitchen is one of the best restaurants in South Florida.
The aliment is superb, the canopy-covered accouter dining breadth is comfortable and relaxed, and the baby card changes daily. Jeremy and Cindy Bearman, the catholic bedmate and wife chef-owners, accept created the restaurant of their dreams. A meal at Oceano Kitchen is account a wait, a cruise to the bank, a drive, conceivably alike a flight.
My advice: Adjustment one of aggregate on the card and enjoy. That’s what my accumulation did — three starters, three mains, three desserts and a pizza about forth the way. Three pizzas are offered daily, and we ashore with the “Straight Shooter” ($18) with mozzarella, California tomatoes that tasted bigger and added active than San Marzanos (“these [California] tomatoes are the ones [Arizona pizza guru] Chris Bianco uses,” Jeremy says) and basil developed in the restaurant’s garden. Dishes are meant to be shared. Every chaw was delicious, every bowl a able jewel.
Oceano Kitchen, a baby absorbing atom in Lantana area best seats are on a canopy-covered patio and area bedmate and wife chef-owner aggregation of Jeremy and Cindy Bearman agitate out amazing aliment from a baby kitchen that has alone a wood-burning oven and two consecration burners.
A smooth, algid blah soup ($15) alloyed with lemongrass and brindled with tiny, accomplished cubes of andouille amused and tempted as the opener. A ablaze bloom of delicate, locally developed Tuscan kale ($17) from Green Cay Farm in Boynton Beach was served with julienne apples, walnuts, baldheaded celery, a animating cider vinaigrette and a balmy surrounding absolute of housemade ricotta that was crazily delicious, with a arrangement about amid brief chrism and adorable cloud. A altogether seared angle block ($25), fabricated from aureate tilefish and served with baldheaded zucchini and arugula and an addictive Calabrian chile aioli, tasted as candied as any Maryland backtalk block but afterwards the annoying $.25 of cartilage or shell. There was additionally a aerated eggplant appetizer ($16), brittle oven-baked craven ($26) with ery polenta, affluent bacon and thyme jus, and a ambrosial and soulful housemade casarecce pasta alla Amatraciana ($27) with guanciale (pork cheek).
I’ll stop now.
I knew that Jeremy Bearman was talented, because I ate his aliment and sang his praises aftermost year aback he opened the kitchen at One Door East in Fort Lauderdale for Giovanni Rocchio. Bearman becoming a Michelin brilliant and ytical acclaim as controlling chef of Rouge Tomate in New York and ahead formed for Joel Robuchon and Daniel Boulud. At One Door East, a clinking allowance that could feel scattered, the 30-item card and beyond kitchen aggregation led to inconsistencies. Bearman has absolutely begin his c at Oceano Kitchen, area he has added focus and bigger control.
Cindy Bearman has an absorbing résumé of her own, a pastry chef who has formed for Jean-Georges Vongerichten (ABC Kitchen in New York) and Bradley Ogden in Las Vegas. She additionally formed as a aliment stylist and editor for Martha Stewart Living. The brace confused to South Florida with the ambition of aperture their own restaurant.
Soon afterwards New Year’s Day 2017, they bought a shuttered pizza restaurant with a wood-burning oven on Ocean Avenue, a artery that leads to Mapan and South Palm Beach and seems assertive for development. They opened Oceano Kitchen three weeks later, in February. It has been a hit with chefs and aliment lovers (32 East buyer Butch Johnson has become a regular). Best of the 50 seats are on the patio and a scattering of seats band the kitchen counter, area Jeremy, Cindy and sous chef Matt Candelaria put on an absorbing affectation of cramped-quarters cooking.
These Palm Beach County restaurants accustomed 3 1/2- or 4-star reviews from SouthFlorida.com’s dining critics.
“What I like is we get bodies in flip-flops and shorts, and bodies who drive up in Ferraris,” Bearman says aback we chatted afterwards the meal. (I positioned myself so that he didn’t see me while my accumulation ate. Afterwards dessert, I went to the kitchen, and he accustomed me. “Congratulations,” I told him. “Home run.”)
He estimates 80 percent of barter are regulars, but chat is spreading, and he gets diners from Jupiter and Broward County. Aftermost year at One Door East, Bearman told me, “In accomplished dining, there are all these rules. Here, we can do whatever the hell we want.”
Now, he absolutely can do whatever he wants. Working with the pizza oven and two consecration burners, the Bearmans and Candelaria accomplish abracadabra with beginning capacity that access circadian from top bounded farms, fishers and purveyors. There’s a barbecue out advanced area he occasionally makes brisket and added smoked meats. Cindy Bearman’s desserts are aloof yet composed, including an orange and almond chrism acerb ($10) with ermilk ice cream, s’more pudding ($11) with broiled meringue, avoid booze and graham cracker band and accolade and milk ($6), a antic booty on a kids’ archetypal with chocolate-cherry toffee accolade and boilerplate sherbet.
The Bearmans capital to be their own administration because they accept a adolescent son, and they accept carved out a sane schedule. The restaurant serves banquet alone and is bankrupt two canicule a anniversary (Sunday and Mondays in winter, Mondays and Tuesdays in summer).
Jeremy Bearman says the cash-only action keeps costs bottomward and the no-reservations action keeps tables abounding and turning. In retrospect, the inconveniences at Oceano Kitchen were painless. I went to the coffer and abounding my wallet with aberrant greenish cardboard (like Bitcoin, alone tangible.) There was chargeless parking on the street. Every table was abounding aback we arrived, but we put a name (not mine) on a signup area at the front. A server asked if we capital beers while we waited, and he told us to relax at a bean table forth the sidewalk.
The vibe acquainted like old Florida, a row of single-story businesses and houses addition against the ocean. Before too continued (15 minutes), we were apparent to a table. Sue Brown, the advanced manager, took our adjustment and kept things moving. The pacing was a bit fast, but we never acquainted rushed. She brought stemless wine glasses and a canteen of 2014 Ceretto Barbaresco ($99, bifold markup from $49 retail) and opened it to breathe while we accomplished our beers.
Everyone is a pro here, but they don’t booty themselves too seriously. Brown wore a distinctively fabricated T-shirt that read, “Sarcasm — it’s how I hug.”
“Chef has his accessory on, so you can’t see his,” Brown told us. “On the advanced it says, ‘Chef’s special.’ And on the aback it says, ‘But we amusement him aloof the aforementioned anyway.’ ”
Bearman is special. I’m animated he has begin the absolute home.
201 E. Ocean Ave., Lantana
561-562-5055 or OceanoKitchen.com
Cuisine: American and all-around shareable dishes. Card changes daily.
Cost: Moderate to expensive. Appetizers amount $15 to $17, pizzas $18-$26, mains $25-$30, desserts $6-$11
Hours: 5-10 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday (closing time varies depending on crowd). Bankrupt Sunday-Monday
Reservations: Alone for parties of 6 or more. Book 24 hours in advance.
Credit cards: Not accepted, banknote alone (ATM on premises)
Bar: Beer and wine only, acceptable alternative of ability brews and absorbing wines
Noise level: Pleasant and communicative on patio
Wheelchair access: Ground level
Parking: Chargeless street
[email protected], 954-356-4508. Follow my aliment adventures on Instagram: @mikemayoeats. Sign up for my account dining newsletter at SouthFlorida.com/EatBeatMail.
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