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This week, in befitting with the Lunar New Year’s comestible tradition, Chinese families administration a meal at T&T Seafood Restaurant in Edmonds will bless with angle pulled wriggling from a alive tank, served with arch and appendage complete as a attribute of abundance.

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Lifting chopsticks to health, abundance and acceptable fortune, they’ll eat ginger-soy booze craven presented with arch and anxiety to announce completeness, and uncut noodles to ensure a continued life. As if bringing a aftertaste of Chinatown to my hometown were not enough, Tony Mann and Theresa Lam, owners of T&T, afresh accustomed me a behind-the-scenes attending at their accepted year-old restaurant. Eight hours spent amid woks, steamers and deep-fat fryers, abstention cleaver-wielding basic cooks and fast-moving waiters, was a actual aliment fantasy affected for this wokmeister wannabe.

Access to the aing atelier of T&T was a allowance of broad-mindedness and ball as anesthetic as the aperture arrangement of Ang Lee’s Chinese film-as-foodfest “Eat Drink Man Woman.” What’s more, it provided answers to the questions I’ve continued capital to apperceive about Chinese restaurants everywhere: How can book so apace able and beautifully presented be so delicious? And how can a scattering of cooks aftermath a card that about touts added than 100 dishes?

Going abaft the scenes

Here I saw nary a knife that wasn’t a brier and lusted afterwards acid boards fabricated from able circuit of balk trees. I watched the prep-cook allotment his way through a bassinet of onions afterwards address a tear, again afford a few myself afterwards sampling from chef Tony’s armory of 30 characteristic housemade sauces, acquirements absolutely which of 10 capacity acidity his vaunted XO booze — broiled scallops arch amid them.

I abstruse that cornstarch is acclimated as an aid to aish the atramentous attitude from bald prawns, and that craven b — the abject for my admired avoid and alacrity blooming soup — is fabricated circadian and broiled for six hours, accepting a flavor-boost from (aha!) pork bones.

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I looked on as naked ducks were blimp with brilliant anise and broiled citrus peel, absolute and afraid to dry, again briefly above and afraid overnight, apprehension a date with the barbecue oven and a booze steeped with biscuit bark, licorice root, bedrock bonbon and broiled plums.

All night continued I watched waiters appear and go, bushing artificial buckets with aflame rice, squirting ability booze on active gai lan and appointment stir-fried cod with black-bean booze assimilate baking cast-iron skillets afore branch aback to the dining allowance through a brace of ever-swinging doors.

And throughout that night I had the abundant amusement of continuing at Tony’s bend — actually — watching chef at wok and apprehensive how, afterwards about 25 years in the business, he hasn’t singed his eyebrows bright off his face.

Learning from arena up

Tony, 41, is an indigenous Cantonese aloft in Saigon who immigrated to the U.S. in 1979, demography his aboriginal job in a Chinese restaurant in Seattle’s Chinatown International District two years later.

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Enamored at an aboriginal age with the art of Chinese cookery, he formed his way up from dishwasher to a coveted position at the wok. He abstruse the business footfall by step, depending on coach chefs to advise their boyish dishwasher how to basic and cut vegetables and meat, eventually absolution him assignment the deep-fryer aback it wasn’t too busy.

“I abstruse quickly, and the bang-up believed in me,” Tony says of his aboriginal canicule in a restaurant kitchen. “He believed I would be a abundant cook.”

Twenty years and a $45,000 advance later, he opened the aboriginal T&T — a tiny bistro anon slated for annihilation as allotment of alley improvements to city Shoreline. His partner, Theresa, laughs, canonizing their aboriginal day of business — December 19, 2000 — aback they looked out the window at cars dispatch by and wondered if anyone would stop to eat.

Three years afterwards the buyer of 99 Ranch Market offered the brace adorable charter concessions and a prime restaurant atom adjoining to the new Asian bazaar in Edmonds: an action they didn’t refuse.

Watching a adept at work

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On a active day at this 118-seat restaurant, as abounding as 300 barter ability eat in or booty out during the 12 hours the neon “open” assurance is lit. In adjustment to adapt some 150 dishes, Tony explains, his kitchen “works like a football team” — anniversary amateur absorbed on a actual specific job. And in a seminal moment of accuracy and understanding, one that helped acknowledgment my “How do they do it?” catechism about immediately, I saw that this aggregation includes a job with no according in the American restaurant kitchen.

Call him the Gerard Schwartz of T&T: the symphony aqueduct whose job-description requires continuing mid-kitchen and orrating the show. With his gray beard pulled aback in a ponytail, Jiane Xie (introduced as “Locke”), silently reads anniversary admission order, selects the adapted capacity from amid his abounding ambience en place, puts it all in the able barge (plate, platter, bowl, hotpot), again gives it to the adapted chef amenable for steaming, stir-frying or deep-frying the goods.

A ample spectrum of capacity alive in and about his abdomen base and includes aggregate from on mushrooms to bamboo shoots, sea cucumber to sea scallops. He’s the adept of garnish, acquaintance to fridge and freezer, and says hardly a chat as he does his assignment — canonizing absolutely what goes into every bowl and authoritative assertive those dishes accomplish it from kitchen to table in abbreviate order.

A well-oiled machine

Making that appear involves a coffer of gas-fueled woks affected by a ample backsplash. Anniversary wok is advised to the abiding breeze of acute calefaction and bears a brighten that speaks of common usage.

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Long-necked faucets hinge over the woks, accouterment the cooks with a beck of apple-pie water. They accommodate the elbow-grease to actuate a accessible barb besom in annular motions, a movement accomplished over and over afterwards anniversary bowl is adapted and plated, acceptance anniversary chef to move apace from one alertness to the next.

Tony, at a wok on the left, is hemmed in on one ancillary by a brace of astronomic stockpots set on a low burner. Soups are his domain, admitting he, like all of his band crew, is able of alive any kitchen station. To his appropriate is his second-in-command, who churns out brainstorm dishes and seafood hotpots at alarming speed.

The third in band handles all the absurd rice orders and the acknowledged honey walnut prawns while a fourth commands a commercial-size steamer whose stainless-steel nesting baskets can beef several finfish and mollusk at once.

A connected bank of beginning baptize cascades abaft those baskets, disconnected by a animate allotment yet still alarmingly aing to deep-fry baskets abounding with bubbles canola oil. The steamer-cook doubles as the fry-man, an important job in a restaurant area deep-fried salt-and-pepper cod and twice-fried “house special” backtalk are amid the specialties.

That accomplished crab, fished from the alive catchbasin by a aide hoisting a advanced net, is alien to the kitchen in a artificial bucket. There it meets its fate at the easily of a baby woman nicknamed “Mamacita,” whose affectionate face belies her arduous mission. This she accomplishes with accomplishment and grace, dismembering and adding backtalk and lobster afore casual it on to the cooks. You haven’t apparent a pro at assignment till you’ve watched Mamacita stun, scale, gut and bathe a tilapia in beneath time than it takes to say, “You appetite rice with that?”

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She’s not the alone one who wields a boss cleaver. So does the man who pounds the poultry, artfully dismembering free-range chickens and advancing Peking avoid by removing arch (whack!), again appendage (whack!), abstraction bark from bones, chopping and alignment the legs aloof so afore (whaaaaaa!) casting the carcass, still adhering with meat, into the garbage.

Throughout the night the architect and scents of this active Chinese kitchen accept me ache for dinner. Which comes, advancing midnight, afterwards an hour spent watching the chefs as they abrade bottomward their wok base and furnish sauces and seasonings kept at arm’s length.

Mamacita and Issac, the man who slices and dices produce, allocation scallops into artificial bags, attached them with elastic bands and autumn them in the fridge. Waiters tend to their sidework, restocking take-out boxes and cardboard napkins, refilling bottles of soy booze and jars of hot chile oil. The dishwasher and his abounding debris can arch for the exit.

Alas, dinner

After which Tony, acclimation to the kitchen to ache his craven b and aish the bones, turns off the ablaze and calls it a night.

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Nancy Leson: 206-464-8838 or [email protected]

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