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Chef David Nayfeld is a Bay Area built-in who, afterwards four years at Eleven Madison Park in New York and a year in Europe, has alternate home. His time away, he said, helped accomplish bright the affectionate of restaurant he did, and did not, appetite to open.

“I appetite this to be a accidental neighbourhood restaurant, not about chic and Michelin-starred,” he explained. “I appetite this be a abode area you appear in to eat acceptable food; area my mom and her accompany can appear in.”

His mom’s accompany may able-bodied appear in to Che Fico, but acceptable will accept to band up to do so — the chef’s high-profile resume and the four-year cat-and-mouse aeon that preceded the restaurant’s March aperture fabricated for a able advertising machine, bound fuelled by visits from Gwyneth Paltrow and Anderson Cooper.

Reservations are adamantine to appear by, but those accommodating to delay in the early-evening band — as I did on a contempo Wednesday — are bound adored with one of the 48 seats aloof for walk-ins.

Hype aside, Che Fico delivers on Nayfeld’s mission. The second-story amplitude is light-filled and expansive, with an accessible kitchen showcasing a wood-fired pizza oven (nicknamed Loretta) and fig-festooned wallpaper — Che Fico translates to “what a fig,” argot for “that’s so cool!” As I sipped on an herbaceous, gin-based Coriander cocktail, I acclaimed the soundtrack — the Talking Heads achromatic into Mos Def afore switching to Bob Marley and The Cure. Pretty cool.

Having anchored a brace of window seats, my date and I affable into the card — all dishes are meant to be enjoyed ancestors style, including a advantageous antipasti of wood-fired octopus with crisp-edged cubes of melty pork belly. The card evolves to highlight seasonality — like an accomplished summer vegetable bloom featuring beginning mozzarella, bean fruitsand blossom-topped zucchini — but charcoal constant abundant to feel accustomed to regulars.

Familiarity explains a area committed to la cucina ebraica, or Jewish affable — a nod to Nayfeld’s roots (his parents immigrated to California from the Soviet Union via Rome in 1980). The grilled, chopped avoid liver, topped with Technicolor pickled onions and cardboard alarm slices, is affluent and adorable abundant to actualize a new bearing of bits lovers.

Fresh pastas, fabricated in-house, are standouts: We approved a altogether al dente cappelletti abounding with caciocavallo cheese and topped with candied fava beans and morel mushrooms. Pizzas accept accepted to be added controversial; fabricated application a agrarian sourdough starter, crusts are adapted to a brown-black char. I abode myself absolutely in the pro-crust camp: Our pie, brindled with chunks of beginning sausage and topped with a flurry of agilely baldheaded raw mushrooms, had a abundantly just-caramelized flavour.

Secondi are bacchian in calibration and serve two, at least; a basin of wood-grilled Marin Sun Farms pork included abounding hunks of blubbery chop and belly, crisp-fried skin, broiled onions, pickled cherries and a basin of greens dressed with alkali aqueous to be eaten with your easily as a aficionado cleanser.

Or you could save allowance for Angela Pinkerton’s desserts. The pastry chef, a adolescent Eleven Madison Park alum, has created a card of Italian-leaning sweets centred on melancholia fruit, including a aperitive olive oil block topped with beginning strawberries and house-made elderflower gelato. (Pinkerton is at the captain of the accidental dinette, Theorita, which is appointed to accessible bench this week.)

That’s the absolute mark of Che Fico’s neighbourhood restaurant status, though: It’s ill-fitted to celebratory groups administration a accomplished lamb loin and abandoned diners adequate a bottle of blue aglianico and hand-cut tagliatelle al ragù at the bar alike. Che fico indeed.

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